Today we went to the Borghese Gallery, which lies in a beautiful park. The museum doesn’t allow cameras, so it was to be an afternoon of just the art and me. But that’s OK. I find photography inside museums to be mostly useless. Unlike landscape photography, it rarely captures the subject well and detracts from the viewing experience. These photos are of the park and garden outside.

The photos advertising the gallery depict lovely but sparse, plain, white statues, no backgrounds and nothing else. So as I ducked through the curtain in the entryway, I was completely unprepared for the sight that awaited me in the first hall.
It is stunning. Every surface, ceiling, walls and floors is covered with beautiful frescoes, paintings, inlaid marble and mosaics. There are a dozen, thrilling, dynamic statues in different materials in the first hall alone. There was literally no direction I could look and not see art.

Every hall is this way. I’ve never experienced such absolute saturation of art in my life. Yet it was not cluttered. Despite the dizzying diversity and quantity of great works, the rooms had wonderful harmony and themes … Italian mythology, Egyptian mythology, satyrs and gods, hieroglyphs and heroes, lovers and babies, battles and glory, life and death, it’s all there.
At the end I came back to the first hall to experience again that first breathtaking moment. I chose an image of a bold Roman solider charging over a hill with red cape flowing to fix in my mind as my memory for this experience. As I did, I wept tears of joy that there could be such exquisite beauty in the world.
This is what I came to Italy for.

Labels: art, Borghese Gallery, Italy, Rome, vacation log, Villa Borghese
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